Lulzbot TAZ power supply endcap scaled for 450w p/2 REMIXed by jaln

Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago

I modified the end cap for the Mean Well SE-450-24 power supply for my Taz 4.
(p/s= power supply))
This mod uses parts from an old PC ATX power supply, namely the press in switch and 3 pin male AC socket. The 24VDC output hole uses a used Taz 4 DC power cable which was de-soldered from a stock power supply I was not using. This requires lengthening wires, and cutting the wire between the switch and socket and then reconnecting them after they are installed in the cover. I added forked terminals, crimped and soldered to attach to the p/s teminals.
If you want to temporarily remove the pins from the end of the connector that plugs into the Taz electronics, you can install the cable from the inside of the p/s cover and not have to use screws to retain it. I used the screws from the outside and had to drill two holes in the rubber flange. Not pretty or easy, but strong.
I would have preferred to modify the cap a bit more because I felt it was a bit too wide and caused undue stress after installing the M4 screws to hold it on the p/s. I used PLA and was concerned that it might crack, but it did not, and does not look like the added stress to the mounting flanges will be an issue. If I was to re-design I would remove a couple of mm from the width of the cover to make it fit closer the the power supply.
I used PLA at 205C/70C fan after layer two. I had made two covers out of ABS and both pulled off the bed or split in the lower layers, so I switched to PLA. I used no support and rotated to print with the connector and switch holes on the bed.
There are 2 .stl files. One is 5mm thick (that's the one I used. I had also designed it as 3.5mm thick, but did not try it as I started with the 5mm version and did not want to dismantle it. The 3.5 mm thick version should work fine if you want to try it. Again, I would rotate it to print with the connector socket and switch holes against the bed to avoid having to use supports.
You will need 4 M4 x 10 machine screws to mount it, 2 M3x 12 screws and nuts for the AC jack, and 2 M3 x 20mm screws and nuts it you mount the DC cable from the outside. If you mount the DC cable from the inside by temporarily removing the DC pins, I would add a zip-tie to the stress relief on the outside as it leaves the hole. Use some washers against the plastic. So, 4 3mm washers and 4 4mm washers.
note: in the photo of the finished p/s I only had two short cap screws, so the upper screw has a nut on it to prevent it from protruding too far into the p/s until I can get a couple more short M4 screws.
I have a lot more faith in this power supply than the stock one, and supposedly the higher DC output rating is supposed to help. So far so good. Just the power switch alone is a nice improvement.
Update 10/13/2017: I added some feet so I could stand this power supply vertically to minimize ths chance opf something falling in the venting and fan holes. See photo above.
Get: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584676