Thingiverse
Hack the Hack by HardCorvus
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 4 years, 2 months ago
"Hack the Hack"
I made and tried the "Hack the Pandemic" mask from COPPER3D. I found the airflow poor and so Designed my own from the ground up. Their website encourages people to work on the design, so I made my own. It is very similar to their design, but the model is from scratch. COPPER3D, if you are reading this: <3 <3 <3
Print 1 flat, 2 caps, and 3 spacers.
Do not use a raft. All can be printed with no support (every angle is 45 degrees or more). Print the caps upside down.
These are not instructions. I am telling you what I did. For obvious and legal reasons, I would never tell you to put hot melted plastic on your face.
I used a hair dryer to heat the flat and conform it to my face. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH HEATED PLASTIC NEAR YOUR FACE.
I repeat:
DON'T PUT HOT PLASTIC ON YOUR FACE.
The is the molding order I followed:
-Heat the middle of the flat, along the nose, and bend it to make a 90 degree V.
-Curl the edges of the chin piece so they'll be easier to weld or glue.
-Heat just the area attaching the chin and bend it up. This is a tight bend, so do it in stages, reheating slightly each time.
-glue/weld the tabs to the inside of the mask (Then let it fully cool and make sure the glue is fully dried so there are no toxic fumes. Also, don't use glue with toxic fumes. This is for respitory health, so do I really need to spell this out?)
-Shape the rest of it to your face is small sections.
Boom, mask. This is in no way certified and you are the one making it so you are responsible for EVERYTHING.
Notes:
---Check the corners to make sure they are air tight---
I found that while shaping, the filters had a tendancy to squish in and press against my cheeks causing poor airflow. I found that holding them while shaping it meant I could pull them out while forming the edges to my face.
I also found the nose and chin the be the hardest. I pused from the inside to make the nose area bigger, let it cool, then reshaped the very edge of the top to fit my nose. Then did the chin to match.
The top edge matters a lot for where you want it to sit on your face because...cheek bones.
It can hold 3 layers. I cut circles from an N95 mask. I put a thin layer on top and a thin layer on the bottom as moisture and larger debris catchers so the middle layer (the finer filtration) doesn't get clogged up as fast.
I use a non-elastic velcro strap for the bottom one around the back of my neck and a lightweight elastic strap on the top. I put some silicone on the top strap to keep it up on my head.
I've also taken the straps from a few disposable masks and run them through heat shrink tubing to make solid elastic straps.
I also repurposed a foam nose pad from a nicer disposable mask to seal along the top edge and other to seal along the bottom. The edges seem to seal fine.
Upgrades from the "Hack the Pandemic" model:
Added in a second filter for more air flow
Changed the pattern of the grid to circles for more air flow
Made the holes in the spacer larger as it is just for pressure
Lengthened the spacer so it could be split to add in a third filtration layer (without lengthening the filter tube)
Added more supports so bending it into shape would be easier
Added texture to the filter cap so it is easier to remove
Fixed the threading because it didn't work too well (sorry, it is true)
Redesigned the threading and model so it can be printed without supports
Split the strap slots so you can have two straps like the more secure masks
Added a handle to the front center so you can adjust it by only touching one spot
I made and tried the "Hack the Pandemic" mask from COPPER3D. I found the airflow poor and so Designed my own from the ground up. Their website encourages people to work on the design, so I made my own. It is very similar to their design, but the model is from scratch. COPPER3D, if you are reading this: <3 <3 <3
Print 1 flat, 2 caps, and 3 spacers.
Do not use a raft. All can be printed with no support (every angle is 45 degrees or more). Print the caps upside down.
These are not instructions. I am telling you what I did. For obvious and legal reasons, I would never tell you to put hot melted plastic on your face.
I used a hair dryer to heat the flat and conform it to my face. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH HEATED PLASTIC NEAR YOUR FACE.
I repeat:
DON'T PUT HOT PLASTIC ON YOUR FACE.
The is the molding order I followed:
-Heat the middle of the flat, along the nose, and bend it to make a 90 degree V.
-Curl the edges of the chin piece so they'll be easier to weld or glue.
-Heat just the area attaching the chin and bend it up. This is a tight bend, so do it in stages, reheating slightly each time.
-glue/weld the tabs to the inside of the mask (Then let it fully cool and make sure the glue is fully dried so there are no toxic fumes. Also, don't use glue with toxic fumes. This is for respitory health, so do I really need to spell this out?)
-Shape the rest of it to your face is small sections.
Boom, mask. This is in no way certified and you are the one making it so you are responsible for EVERYTHING.
Notes:
---Check the corners to make sure they are air tight---
I found that while shaping, the filters had a tendancy to squish in and press against my cheeks causing poor airflow. I found that holding them while shaping it meant I could pull them out while forming the edges to my face.
I also found the nose and chin the be the hardest. I pused from the inside to make the nose area bigger, let it cool, then reshaped the very edge of the top to fit my nose. Then did the chin to match.
The top edge matters a lot for where you want it to sit on your face because...cheek bones.
It can hold 3 layers. I cut circles from an N95 mask. I put a thin layer on top and a thin layer on the bottom as moisture and larger debris catchers so the middle layer (the finer filtration) doesn't get clogged up as fast.
I use a non-elastic velcro strap for the bottom one around the back of my neck and a lightweight elastic strap on the top. I put some silicone on the top strap to keep it up on my head.
I've also taken the straps from a few disposable masks and run them through heat shrink tubing to make solid elastic straps.
I also repurposed a foam nose pad from a nicer disposable mask to seal along the top edge and other to seal along the bottom. The edges seem to seal fine.
Upgrades from the "Hack the Pandemic" model:
Added in a second filter for more air flow
Changed the pattern of the grid to circles for more air flow
Made the holes in the spacer larger as it is just for pressure
Lengthened the spacer so it could be split to add in a third filtration layer (without lengthening the filter tube)
Added more supports so bending it into shape would be easier
Added texture to the filter cap so it is easier to remove
Fixed the threading because it didn't work too well (sorry, it is true)
Redesigned the threading and model so it can be printed without supports
Split the strap slots so you can have two straps like the more secure masks
Added a handle to the front center so you can adjust it by only touching one spot
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