Southpaw 75 Case by kleenecks

Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago

If your printer is not square, these tall prints might not be dimensionally accurate and lead to the two halves not fitting perfectly. If that's the case, you might need to print the Gap Filler and solder that to the other parts.
Overview
This is a case designed to fit the Southpaw 75 keyboard. This is built around the Holyswitch Southpaw kit, not sure if it fits with the other version. It prints in two halves and is joined together with a few dowel pins.
TL;DR Print everything and figure out how the parts fit with the case. The build should be straight forward, but read the full description if you want some guidance.
What You'll Need
4x M2 10mm standoffs
8+ M2 screws (not sure what length it is, but whatever came with the kit)
Super glue, E6000, JB Weld, 5-minute Epoxy, etc.
Optional: soldering iron
Print Settings
Print both halves and 4 dowel pins.
Make sure the two halves are oriented on the outer ends (holes facing up). See Print Orientation photo.
I recommend using at least 2 walls so the dowel pin holes will be strong enough for a press fit.
Higher infill should give you a nicer sounding case
Optional: you can do a filament change after the first couple layers to have a nice accent on the side of the assembled case.
Assembly Instructions
You probably want to do a test fit with the plate/PCB to see if it fits. If it doesn't fit, that might mean your printer is not square or the print warped... or maybe my design is messed up idk
Apply glue/epoxy to the dowel pins into the holes of one half of the board. These pins were designed to be friction fit, so if your pins don't fit, try resizing them in your slicer.
Apply glue/epoxy to the mating surface of the two halves. Once coated, press the two halves together.
Optional: use a soldering to melt the seam together on the inside of the case. You can also melt the seam on the bottom side of the case as it will be covered by the bottom case from the kit.
Press fit the standoffs into the holes on the inner lip of the case. If the holes are too small, you can open them up by giving them a jank countersink with a Phillips screwdriver. The standoffs should be flush with the lip so the plate ends up flush with the case.
Tap the holes on the bottom of the case by screwing in the screws before putting on the bottom case.
Once you've pre-tapped the holes, put the bottom case into the recess and use as many screws as you'd like. I'm lazy so I only put them on the corners.