Thingiverse
Christmas Moravian star (no support needed) by DeltaPlus
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 4 months ago
Merry Christmas! Happiness for everyone!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moravian_starhttps://www.herrnhuter-sterne.de/en/
You need to print 27 parts:
1x frame - base
8x point3 - triangular points
17x point4 - square points
1x pointH - top point
Different star sizes are available. From 16 cm to 73 cm of span between points. Larger stars can of course be printed only on larger 3D printers. Lighting can be installed for medium and large stars. Details are in the tables (among the pictures).
A simple rescaling is not recommended because the dimensions of the individual elements (e.g. the thickness of the walls of the points) were specifically calculated. Only minor changes of scale are allowed and sometimes even necessary, due to the alignment of the points to the holes in frame.
Support is not needed. Print without raft and brim is possible.
It is highly recommended to print the points in vase mode (spiral mode). Prints are faster, use less material and, above all, look much nicer. Vase mode should be used at the top of the point - starting at a certain height (see table). Printing in normal mode is also allowed.
The points are pressed into the frame with some force. The use of glue is not recommended - storing the star (until next Christmas) will be more difficult.
The sizes of the holes and pressed points (and the inclination) were determined experimentally with high accuracy. However, the actual dimensions after printing will also depend on factors, such as the type of filament used (PLA, ABS, other), the 3D printer used, the build plate used and the adhesion of the first layer, or the software used.
The fixed dimensions work well for my 3D printer (Creality), my build plate, slicer Cura, and my PLA filament.
I printed stars with sizes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 - see photos. For sizes 4, 5, 6 I installed lighting.
Better to print the frame first, before printing the points.
If the points you print do not match, you can either apply glue or change the scale of the printed point slightly, e.g. to 101% or 99%.
You may notice that the top holes in the printed frame are slightly larger than the holes at the bottom. This is a certain feature not of the model, but of the 3D printing.
My Cura setting (nozzle size 0.4):
line_width = 0.4
layer_height = 0.2
layer_height_0 = 0.2
wall_thickness = 1.2
top_bottom_thickness = 0.8
speed_print = 20 (for frame)
speed_print = 15 (for medium frame: size=4 or size=5)
speed_print = 10 (for small frame: size=2 or size=3)
speed_print = 40 (for points)
speed_print = 20 (for small points: size=2 or size=3 ; point3 and pointH)
speed_travel = speed_print
z_seam_type = sharpest_corner (for frame)
z_seam_corner = z_seam_corner_inner (for frame)
magic_spiralize = True (for points in vase mode)
bottom_thickness = 13.8 (for points in vase mode) (different for different sizes, see table)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moravian_starhttps://www.herrnhuter-sterne.de/en/
You need to print 27 parts:
1x frame - base
8x point3 - triangular points
17x point4 - square points
1x pointH - top point
Different star sizes are available. From 16 cm to 73 cm of span between points. Larger stars can of course be printed only on larger 3D printers. Lighting can be installed for medium and large stars. Details are in the tables (among the pictures).
A simple rescaling is not recommended because the dimensions of the individual elements (e.g. the thickness of the walls of the points) were specifically calculated. Only minor changes of scale are allowed and sometimes even necessary, due to the alignment of the points to the holes in frame.
Support is not needed. Print without raft and brim is possible.
It is highly recommended to print the points in vase mode (spiral mode). Prints are faster, use less material and, above all, look much nicer. Vase mode should be used at the top of the point - starting at a certain height (see table). Printing in normal mode is also allowed.
The points are pressed into the frame with some force. The use of glue is not recommended - storing the star (until next Christmas) will be more difficult.
The sizes of the holes and pressed points (and the inclination) were determined experimentally with high accuracy. However, the actual dimensions after printing will also depend on factors, such as the type of filament used (PLA, ABS, other), the 3D printer used, the build plate used and the adhesion of the first layer, or the software used.
The fixed dimensions work well for my 3D printer (Creality), my build plate, slicer Cura, and my PLA filament.
I printed stars with sizes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 - see photos. For sizes 4, 5, 6 I installed lighting.
Better to print the frame first, before printing the points.
If the points you print do not match, you can either apply glue or change the scale of the printed point slightly, e.g. to 101% or 99%.
You may notice that the top holes in the printed frame are slightly larger than the holes at the bottom. This is a certain feature not of the model, but of the 3D printing.
My Cura setting (nozzle size 0.4):
line_width = 0.4
layer_height = 0.2
layer_height_0 = 0.2
wall_thickness = 1.2
top_bottom_thickness = 0.8
speed_print = 20 (for frame)
speed_print = 15 (for medium frame: size=4 or size=5)
speed_print = 10 (for small frame: size=2 or size=3)
speed_print = 40 (for points)
speed_print = 20 (for small points: size=2 or size=3 ; point3 and pointH)
speed_travel = speed_print
z_seam_type = sharpest_corner (for frame)
z_seam_corner = z_seam_corner_inner (for frame)
magic_spiralize = True (for points in vase mode)
bottom_thickness = 13.8 (for points in vase mode) (different for different sizes, see table)
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